Sunset Dinner on the Beach at La Palapa

It’s hard to believe that La Palapa was once considered a trek to reach, far outside of town, the town being sprawling Puerto Vallarta. Now, its stately presence is an oasis of elegance surrounded by a non-stop cacophony of sunburnt roving bands of tourists guzzling 2 for 1 margaritas and the ever-present seaside hawkers selling everything from t-shirts to shrimp on a stick. But there it is, right at the end (or beginning, depending on your perspective) of Los Muertos beach – a literal palapa housing one of the world’s most romantic restaurants.

La Palapa opened its doors on December 31, 1958, fulfilling the vision of its founders, Rodelinda and Guy Dickey. Restaurants on the beach weren’t even a thing back then, but the Dickeys had revolutionary ideas for this plot of sand. And La Palapa quickly gained a glamorous following, including visiting local celebrities (the actress Elizabeth Taylor was an early adopter) who fell in love with the tropical, romantic atmosphere and fancy, unfussy food.

I’ll never forget my first trip to La Palapa, last century in the late 1900s. I was a 20-something traveler and my man of the moment and I enjoyed a date there. I don’t remember the guy much at all, but I can recall almost every last detail of our visit to La Palapa! Sitting with our feet in the sand, gazing out at the last rays of sun glinting off the Bay of Banderas and later, lit by a sky full of stars, eating my first (and best ever) tableside Caesar salad. I felt so grown-up. It remains one of the most romantic meals I have ever had in my life.

Celebratory Martinis From Our table in the Sand

Fast forward 30-ish years and I returned to La Palapa, but this time all grown up and with the love of my life in tow. It hasn’t changed a bit, at least not in any way that matters. It is still charming and beautiful with outstanding service and wonderful food. My recent experience was just as memorable as the one in my 20s with whatshisname.

We kicked things off with celebratory martinis from our table in the sand.

Our entrée was the much hyped, house specialty, Zarandeado Style Local Fish (red snapper) served with garlic rice and a criolla salad.

Zarandeado Fish traces its origins back to pre-Hispanic times and reportedly developed in the neighboring state of Nayarit, specifically, the Island of Mexcaltitán. Made with red snapper, the fish is split in half from head to tail before it’s grilled over hot coals in a wood-fired oven, seasoned with orange, lemon, and other spices. Fresh and delicious.

Criolla is a type of salad or sauce or relish found in Latin American cuisine, composed of finely chopped sliced onions, vinegar, tomatoes, garlic, chili peppers, bell peppers, olive oil, salt, pepper and fresh herbs like parsley or cilantro.

We were delighted to see Mexican wines on the nicely curated list. This being our first time sampling local wines, we were grateful for the recommendation from our server for a bottle of Vino Tinto Las Nubes Selección Barricas red wine from Las Nubes Bodegas y Viñedos Yes, you can drink red wine with fish, promise, its ok. And this wine was better than ok – it complimented the meal perfectly.

Dessert!

On such a gorgeous night, we could not resist dessert. Churro with house made cajeta and ice cream plus the sensational Flan de Elote (Corn Flan) with mascarpone & caramel. The perfect ending.

Happy to report La Palapa is holding up just fine despite its advanced years (almost 70 at the time of this writing). It remains a magical place and always an unforgettable experience.

KC Shomler

Words by KC Shomler Author of Falling Out of Love With My Career and Desperately Dating

Photos by Steven Shomler

Website Wizardry by Arthur Breur

Follow La Palapa

Website https://www.lapalapapv.com/

Facebook https://www.facebook.com/lapalapapv/

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Visit La Palapa

La Palapa is located in the Zona Romántica neighborhood of Puerto Vallarta directly on the beach, near the intersection of Púlpito and Amapas streets.

La Palapa Address:
Púlpito 105-3, Colonia Emiliano Zapata, 48380 Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico